For several years , they were very penny-pinching . Then African - American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly and former first madam Mary Todd Lincoln had a falling out , and their family relationship abruptly terminate . The adult female ’s unlikely friendly relationship , and Keckly ’s impact on the fashion world , are discussed in a recent episode of the podcastDressed , produce by HowStuffWorks and hosted by fashion historian April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary .
Elizabeth Keckly was born into thralldom in 1818 . Her female parent teach her how to sew , and she soon became exceptionally skilled at it . When Keckly was a young woman , she and her son move to St. Louis with their owner . Keckly , a tireless proletarian , supported her owner ’s intact sept with her wearable - gain acquisition . But Keckly was also a abrupt and savvy businesswoman . At long time 37 , she purchase exemption for herself and her Logos for $ 1,200 . Her truehearted clients helped raise the money .
In 1860 , after a failed matrimony , Keckly and her son moved to Washington , D.C. Keckly soon became the premier dressmaker in the capital , clothing big shots such as Varina Davis , wife of soon - to - be Confederate United States President Jefferson Davis , and Mary Todd Lincoln , the married woman of President Abraham Lincoln . Initially , she did all of the work by herself . But as her patronage grow , she hired a team of seamstresses . With assistance , Keckly focused more on the fit of the dress rather than the factual construction . And it was her ability to skilfully set garments that brought her much acclaim .
We know so much about Keckly today because of her friendship with Lincoln . Keckly first dress the first gentlewoman in 1861 , shortly after her hubby became president . Lincoln was a fashionista and is said to have order more than two dozen dresses each season . She favoredbold , opulent frocksand flower - clear headgear . Also high on her inclination were low - cut formal gowns with long gearing , similar to those favored by French Empress Eugénie . However , Keckly’sdesign stylewas neat and sophisticated , with petty lace or ribbon .
With Lincoln devoted to fashion , Keckly was often at the White House . The two developed a rich friendly relationship , strengthened by their shared grief over the untimely death of Keckly ’s Logos and two of Lincoln ’s . Then , the president was assassinated . Unbeknownst to her husband , Lincoln had amassed a huge debt from buy so many expensive gowns . Unable to pay the bills , and with creditors hunt her , Lincoln traveled to New York to try and trade some of her clothes . She talked Keckly into assisting her .
At that time , it was considered scandalous for a famous person to sell her clothing . The populace flamed Lincoln , who chop-chop take back home . Keckly — who had abandoned her thriving D.C. business to facilitate her acquaintance — was now in dire fiscal straits as well .
Then , a writer approached Keckly . His mind : team up up to pen her memoir . involve the money , Keckly took his offering and compose " Behind the Scenes : or , Thirty years a Slave , and Four year in the White House . "
Keckly had no intentions of harming her friend by her William Tell - all , but Lincoln was scourge at the revelations about her home ’s individual life . She never spoke to Keckly again . Keckly ultimately died penniless in 1907 at theNational Home for Destitute Colored Women and Children , a place she helped incur several decades earlier .
deplorably , few pieces of Keckly ’s wearable exist today . But her book is still in print .
